On the emitter of the transistor is an inductor - the value of this, too, is not critical, and any value from a few tens of microhenries upwards would work. On the collector of the transistor is the induction loop - this is just a single circular loop of wire, to match the loop of wire connected to the LED. It overheated and died when I tried to increase the brightness of the LED by increasing the voltage to 12 V - so, keep your battery voltage down to 6V if using the BF494 or equivalent transistor. Then comes the transistor - I first tested the circuit using a BF494 transistor - this is a high frequency low power transistor used in the front end of medium wave radios. I used a 0.1 microfarad capacitor, although any capacitor in the range 100 picofarad and upwards will work. The 33K resistor will have three orange bands on it, and then a silver or gold band. The voltage is not critical, and I tested it using the output from my mobile phone charger too. I used four AAA cells in a holder to test this circuit. The longer dash represents the positive tab, the "pip" if you are using AA cells. On the extreme left is the symbol for the battery. I shall explain the circuit diagram, taking each component (or its representation) from left to right. When the two loops are placed close together (but not touching) the LED lights up. The LED's leads are formed into a matching loop and soldered to form the receiving loop. The inductor is a wire formed into a circular loop. Due to feedback inside it, it oscillates, converting a portion of energy from the battery into radio frequency energy. A high frequency transistor is connected to an inductor, and biased to its active region.
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XSTAND WIRELESS LED HOW TO
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That’s what found in Japan, and if you find something you just have to replicate it.
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